Practical guidance for first-time Kunekune piglet owners on weaning age, fermented feed, and safely introducing hot wire training.

Two-week-old Kunekune piglets are still very much babies. They may be nibbling, exploring, and acting independent one minute, then piling back on mom the next. That is normal. Weaning and fence training both matter, but neither one needs to be rushed just because the piglets are starting to look sturdy.

The Short Answer

For most Kunekune piglets, I prefer weaning closer to 8 weeks old rather than 5 or 6 weeks, as long as the sow is doing well and the piglets are growing steadily.

Some people wean earlier, especially if the sow is losing condition or there is a management reason. But for a first litter, and especially with Kunekunes, giving piglets more time with mom usually makes the transition easier.

Why 8 Weeks Is a Good Goal

By 8 weeks, piglets are usually:

  • Eating feed well on their own
  • Drinking water confidently
  • Grazing and exploring
  • Better prepared emotionally and physically
  • Less likely to struggle after separation

Kunekunes are slower-maturing than fast commercial hog breeds. That does not mean they are weak; it just means they often do better when managed with patience instead of a production-line calendar.

Using Fermented Feed Before Weaning

We also like to use fermented feed with piglets once they are old enough to start nibbling alongside mom. It can help encourage interest in solid food, adds moisture, and is often easier for young pigs to eat than dry pellets.

Keep it simple:

  • Start with a small amount so it stays fresh
  • Use clean containers
  • Keep the texture soft, not soupy
  • Feed only what they will clean up
  • Do not let it mold or sit too long
  • Keep fresh water available at all times

Fermented feed is not a replacement for nursing at 2 weeks old, but it can be a helpful bridge as piglets begin learning to eat on their own. By weaning time, piglets that are already eating fermented feed well usually handle the transition more smoothly.

How to Wean Kunekune Piglets

The smoothest weaning is usually not dramatic. The goal is to make the change feel boring.

A practical approach is:

  1. Make sure piglets are eating well first
    Before weaning, they should be regularly eating feed, fermented feed, or soaked pellets, drinking water, and not relying only on nursing.
  2. Move mom, not the piglets, if possible
    Piglets handle it better when they stay in the pen they already know. Move the sow to a nearby area where she can settle away from them.
  3. Keep routines the same
    Same feed, same water, same shelter, same pen mates. Do not wean, move, change feed, and train fence all on the same day.
  4. Watch them closely for several days
    Some hollering is normal. What you want to see is piglets still eating, drinking, sleeping, and acting bright.
  5. Support the sow too
    After weaning, reduce rich feed a bit for a short time if needed so her milk dries up comfortably. Keep an eye on her udder for heat, swelling, or signs she is not feeling right.

When Earlier Weaning Might Be Needed

Earlier weaning may make sense if:

  • The sow is losing too much condition
  • Piglets are injuring her udder
  • The litter is unusually hard on her
  • There is a safety or management issue
  • A veterinarian recommends it

Even then, I would avoid treating 5 weeks as the default unless there is a real reason. If piglets are healthy and mom is handling them well, waiting longer is usually kinder and easier.

Hot Wire Training: Do Not Rush It

Hot wire is an excellent tool for pigs, but piglets need to be introduced to it safely. I do not like turning tiny piglets loose into a big area with only electric fence as their first lesson.

A good time to start is usually after they are eating well and old enough to think clearly, often around 6 to 8 weeks, depending on size, confidence, and setup.

How to Train Piglets to Hot Wire

The safest method is to train them inside a solid physical fence first.

Set up a small training pen with:

  • A secure woven wire, hog panel, or board fence as the main barrier
  • One hot wire inside the fence at piglet nose height
  • No corners where they can panic and pile up
  • Plenty of room to back away after they touch it
  • Feed and water away from the hot wire

The piglets need to learn, “that wire bites,” while still having a real fence behind it. Once they respect it in a controlled pen, they are much safer in a larger electric-fenced area.

Do Not Train During Weaning Day

Weaning is stressful enough. Hot wire training is also a big lesson. I would not do both at the same time.

A better order is:

  1. Let piglets grow and start eating well
  2. Introduce fermented feed or soaked feed as they begin nibbling
  3. Introduce hot wire in a safe training pen
  4. Wean when they are ready
  5. Keep things calm for a few days after weaning
  6. Then expand their space once they respect the fence

Final Thoughts

For a first round of babies, wanting to do everything right is a good instinct. With Kunekunes, the best answer is usually not “rush them along,” but “set them up so the next step is easy.”

Aim for weaning around 8 weeks when possible, make sure the piglets are eating and drinking well before separation, use fermented feed as a helpful bridge into solid food, and teach hot wire in a safe training pen before expecting it to hold them. Calm, boring transitions raise better pigs than sudden big changes.

About the Author

BF Farm raises registered Kunekune pigs with attention to temperament, structure, bloodlines, and long-term breed quality. Our articles are based on real experience with breeding decisions, farrowing, piglet care, buyer education, and helping families choose Kunekunes that fit their farm or homestead.